A Garland for Good Beer!

On Thursday 28 May the Brewers’ Company revived an ancient ceremony in collaboration with a Sheriff and the Ale Conners of the City of London by hoisting a garland at the Traitor’s Gate pub to signify the quality of their ale.

Hanging a garland from an inn sign is an old custom symbolising hospitality, good fellowship and good ale. Traditionally brewers in the City signified where ale was sold with a long pole or ale-stake outside, developing into a requirement to show an ale-stake as a signal to the Ale Conner – the City of London’s officials who were responsible for ensuring that beer brewed and sold within the City was good quality – that a new brew was ready for official approval. Over time further embellishment was added to the ale-stake, often a round garland of considerable size.

Research has revealed that a revival took place at the ancient George Inn, Borough in 1937 (just over the river in Southwark); Youngs Brewery held garland hanging ceremonies when they reopened rebuilt or repaired pubs after the Second World War; and a very grand occasion was held at the Tiger Tavern, Tower Hill in 1949. The next occasion in the City was possibly not until the Hoop and Grapes on Aldgate High Street was reopened in August 1983.

The recent ceremony at McMullen’s pub, the Traitor’s Gate on Trinity Street in London, saw the Ale Conners knock on the door of the pub and ask the landlord to give them his ale to taste. A standard form of words was used:

Ale Connor 1: Landlord! Bring out your brew of ale. We want no tipple thin or stale.

Ale Connor 2: Please note, we really mean good beer. Rich, ripe and wholesome without fear.

Ale Connor 1: We’d mention too we have the power to send bad brewers to the Tower.

Landlord: Master Conner, I’m no fool to risk the Tower or the ducking stool. Drink deep of this and have no fear, there’s no fault you’ll find with this fine beer.

Happily, the Ale Connors approved the beer and Sherif Keith Bottomley congratulated the landlord and McMullens Brewery on the quality of their ale. The Beadle of the Brewers’ Company was commanded to hoist the garland and everyone entered the pub to sample more fine ale.

The City of London is replete with wonderful pubs serving a huge selection of amazing beers and the Brewers’ Company, together with the Lord Mayor’s representatives, were delighted to be able to celebrate this through this ceremony.